In skin care, the terms retinoids and retinol are often confused and used interchangeably. However, despite being commonly prescribed for skin issues like acne, dry skin, wrinkles, and pigmentation, they aren’t the same things.
In this article, we will answer a few questions like how they are different, whether they do the same thing, and which might be a better alternative for you. Let’s delve in, shall we?
What are retinoids?
Retinoids are a class of unique chemical compounds constituting vitamin A and its derivatives that regulate epithelial cell growth. The medical uses of retinoids are diverse, from skin cancers and forms of leukaemia, to vision-related conditions, and, of course, skincare.
In the beauty world, retinoids usually refer to any topical product containing a vitamin A derivative. Many different products, therefore, fall under the umbrella of retinoids. For example, Retinol, Retinoic Acid, Retinol Palmitate, Retinol Propionate, Isotretinoin, Alitretinoin, Acitretin, Adapalene, Tazarotene, and Trifarotene.
The latter three are newer-generation retinoids and are more effective at treating conditions such as psoriasis and acne with fewer side effects. Historically, retinoids like retinoic acid and retinol have been widely utilised in the treatment of skin ageing as they prevent collagen degradation (this is the molecular basis of its anti-ageing clinical efficacy).
Retinoid benefits
The benefits of retinoids are vast, as mentioned earlier. Fundamentally, the skin is a retinoid-responsive organ and is able to absorb topical retinoids and their derivatives readily. Retinoids influence the proliferation and differentiation of cells, cytosolic binding proteins, and nuclear hormone receptors.
As such, retinoids help in the treatment of serious conditions like skin lesions, Kaposi sarcoma, cutaneous T cell lymphoma, and acute promyelocytic leukaemia to some less serious but also distressing conditions like psoriasis and acne.
The use of retinoids for acne
Acne is an inflammatory disease that affects the skin’s oil glands and hair follicles. The oil-producing glands present in our skin, known as sebaceous glands, are typically attached to hair follicles and release a fatty substance called sebum that helps protect and lubricate the skin and hair.
Acne appears when sebum and dead skin cells become trapped in a hair follicle, thus forming a small plug known as microcomedo. Over time dead skin cells accumulate in blocked pores, and microcomedo may enlarge to form an open comedo known as blackhead or closed comedo known as a whitehead.
Many major factors have been attributed to the growth of acne. The overproduction of sebum, follicular hyperkeratinization, and the presence of acne-causing bacteria include various strains of Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes).
Additionally, hormonal acne in men due to the increased production of sex hormones (androgens) is a common cause.
Retinoids are often prescribed for the treatment of acne. The main target of these retinoids, when applied, are epidermal cells known as suprabasal keratinocytes.
The retinoid first gets converted into retinoic acid, which is then shuttled by cellular retinoic acid binding protein (CRABP) into the nucleus. Afterward, it binds to either the retinoic acid receptors (RARs) or retinoid X receptors (RXRs).
The retinoic acid-bound receptors then bind to retinoic acid response elements on target genes, causing activation of transcription factors. These, in turn, activate the synthesis of heparin-binding epidermal growth factor (HB-EGF) and amphiregulin (AR).
These through the interaction with epidermal growth factor-receptor (EGF-R), cause proliferation of basal keratinocytes, thereby inducing a thickening of the epidermis.
Through this complex action, retinoids promote the shedding of keratinized mature and dead skin cells at the surface, which leads to the expulsion of mature comedones and suppression of microcomedo formation.
In a nutshell, retinoids help with the shedding of acne pimples and prevent the forming of new ones.
The common topical retinoids prescribed for acne are Tretinoin, Adapalene, and Tazarotene, and the oral one is Isotretinoin. Both topical and oral retinoids work through the same mechanism of action.
However, Isotretinoin has additional unique inhibitory activity on the sebaceous glands. It lowers the production of sebum.
What are retinols?
Retinol is a retinoid with many uses in skincare. It is used to treat acne and also has anti-aging effects. You can buy retinol without a prescription at a drugstore, or see your doctor about how to incorporate retinol into your skincare regimen.
Your doctor may prescribe retinoid medications in higher concentrations than you can buy over the counter. Fundamentally, it is a topical treatment and comes in various forms. For example, creams, gels, ointments, lotions, and serums.
Benefits of retinols
Retinol has been an industry-standard in the care and treatment of skin issues for decades. It has anti-aging and skin-clearing qualities, with its ability to promote collagen synthesis in photoaged skin.
Furthermore, it increases the thickness and elasticity of one’s skin, slows melanin production, reduces inflammation, and prevents clogged pores.
Additionally, it is used to treat acne, acne scars, dark spots, large pores, karposi sarcoma lesions, melasma, psoriasis, stretch marks, and wrinkles.
The difference between Retinoids and Retinol
Retinoids and retinol are different. Retinol is essentially an example of a retinoid. However, in skin care, they are considered two separate treatments. Let’s now look at what really makes them different.
Strength
Retinoids are generally more potent than retinol, and as such, retinoids are usually prescription only (in some countries, Adapalene can be bought over the counter). In contrast, retinol is always allowed to be dispensed without a written prescription.
Usage
Both retinoids and retinol are used for skin care and treatment of conditions such as psoriasis and acne, but the usage and dosage may differ.
Time to see results
Retinoids act faster as they are stronger and thus show results in a much shorter time than retinol.
Side effects
The side effects of using retinoids and retinol are similar, albeit to varying degrees. The varying degrees are because of their variable strength. Because skin peeling, redness, and irritation are side effects of the initial use of retinoids and retinols, it’s important to space out applications to mitigate these side effects.
Who shouldn’t use it?
Retinol and retinoids aren’t safe to use when you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, which can be especially challenging if you experience acne during pregnancy. Using them while pregnant can lead to birth defects.
Additionally, retinoids should also be avoided if you have sensitive skin.
When and how to use them?
The main side effect of using retinol and retinoids is skin irritation. Additionally, they may also cause redness, dryness, and flaking, especially when one is starting out a dose. As such, it is important to ease into them.
It can, sometimes, take up to several weeks for one’s skin to get used to retinol and retinoid products. So,the flaking and small bumps that you may experience are often normal and should stop once your skin builds up its retinoid receptors.
This is called skin purging which happens when one’s skin builds up its receptors through controlled exposure.
Nonetheless, it is essential to distinguish between retinoids and retinol, as the former requires extra care while easing into it. On the other hand, retinols aren’t as strong and don’t require as much care as they won’t cause as much irritation as retinoids.
Overall, it is suggested to apply retinoids and retinol at night time to avoid irritation from the sun and during the day. Additionally, always use sunscreen to help protect your skin against sun exposure. Lastly, avoid other exfoliants unless they are designed to be used with retinoids or retinols.
Which is better: retinol or retinoid?
The differences between the two mean that rather than any being better than the other, they are simply different. Your skin type and the severity of the condition you are trying to treat ought to be the main determinants of which of the two products you’ll choose.
Regarding men’s skin type, if your skin is on the drier end of the spectrum, you are better off going with retinols over retinoids. This is because retinols are more gentle and don’t dry the skin as much. Additionally, they are also frequently formulated with hydrating ingredients.
However, if your skin is sensitive, then retinol again is your best bet, given its gentle nature.
Regarding the severity of the condition, if your condition is severe, retinols might not be able to help, and thus prescription-grade retinoids might be the solution.
However, retinols also require more patience as results often take a few weeks to six months to show, so if your condition is causing you distress, you might need to go with faster-acting retinoids.
Also read: Retinol vs. Tretinoin
How to choose a retinoid cream?
The choice of which retinoid cream to use depends on the skin issue and type of skin. For example, a tretinoin-based cream for acne would be a good choice for men.
Multiple studies support the efficacy of tretinoin in treating acne as tretinoin is considered the only retinoid with a scientifically proven indication for photoaging/rhytides.
Tretinoin is also effective in fighting wrinkles and lines on the face. Anti-aging creams that contain this element are often prescribed by dermatologists for this purpose.
Various formulations containing retinoids, both over-the-counter and prescription based, are available for a myriad of skin issues. Talk to your dermatologist if you have skin problems like acne.
Additionally, check out anti-acne cream at andSons Malaysia.
This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. The information contained herein is not a substitute for and should never be relied upon for professional medical advice.
Book a consultation with andSons Malaysia’s medical team to learn more about skincare conditions and available treatments here.
